Friday, April 24, 2009

In The Buddha's Footsteps (9)

The Buddha gave His first discourse on the Dhammacakkappavatana Sutta at the Deer Park in Isipatana (now known as Sarnath) after He attained Enlightenment. The Buddha exhorted the monks to avoid the two extreme practices of the indulgences in sensual pleasures and and addiction to self-mortification. Avoiding these two extremes, the Buddha has realized the Middle Path which is the Noble Eightfold Path.

30th March 2009, Sarnath/Varanasi


The Dhammacakkappavatana Sutta was engraved on marble slab at the Mulagandhakuti Temple in Sarnath.


I shared room number 210 at the Wat Thai Sarnath with a young college chap from Thailand.


The Buddha image at the Wat Thai Sarnath are made out from a piece of stone.


It was another early rise for all of us as we will be heading to the banks of Ganges River at Varanasi. When we left the temple at about 5.20am, the roads were quiet and deserted. We reached the river at about 6.00am. Since it was still very early, the place was very calm as there was not many people there.

As the sun rises at the horizon, we hopped onto the boats which was steered by a boatman.
This boatman is the one that commandered the boat that took us out to the river. Since the boat was full, I was offered a "special" seat just in front of him on the floor.

The sight and atmosphere at the ghats along the Ganges River was an experience that really etched deeply into my mind. The weather was just nice, cool but not cold and the boat ride was very relaxing as there was no artificial waves generated by the boats as these boats glide slowly on the river.

All of us were given a lotus light to be floated on the river after the prayers.

For those who were ordained earlier in Bodhgaya, this is the place where they throw their clump of hairs which was wrapped in yam leaves into the river. After about an hour at the site, we returned to the Wat Thai for breakfast.


The Chaukhandi Stupa marks the spot where the Buddha first met with his five companions after His Enlightenment. These five namely Kondanna, Bhaddiya, Vappa, Mahanama and Assaji were the Buddha's first disciples.

It was about 9am when we visited Chaukhandi stupa and the sun was shining brightly on us. Those who climbs up to the tower would have a great view of the surrounding areas.

After lunch, while the Thais were having a workshop discussing on their pilgrimage experience, I went to Sarnath's Archaeological Museum. The moment I steps into the museum main exhibits hall, the magnificent lion capital of Asoka Pillar welcomes all visitors. A friendly staff of the museum explains the significant of the pillar.

Other than the Asoka Pillar lion capital, the other most important exhibit is the one that depicts the Buddha delivering His first sermon Dhammacakkappavatana Sutta. This image is widely used in publications and also produced in smaller sizes and sold as souvenirs.

The Mulagandhakuti Vihara built in 1931 contains the relic of the Buddha which was kept in the main shrine. The walls are wrapped with murals depicting the life of the Buddha which was painted by the famous Japanese artist, Kosetsu Nosu.

This image depicts Buddha during His first sermon.

Our delegation was given the honour to step into the inner section of the main shrine and be blessed by the Buddha's relics which was held by the resident Bhikkhu, Ven. R. Sumithnanda Thero.


Anagarika Dharmapala ( 1864 - 1933), was instrumental towards the formation of Maha Bodhi Society in 1891 and initiated the efforts to reclaim the Maha Bodhi Temple from the Mahant. The Mulagandhakuti Vihara was built by him in 1931.


This bell was constructed by the Tibetans exiled in India as a symbol of gratitude to the Indian government and her people.

Later in the afternoon we went to the Dharmekh Stupa for our prayers and also meditation session. This gigantic stupa provide the shades that shelters us from the setting sun. The well kept lawn, the shade and the cool breezes presents to us a great atmosphere for the moment of peace and tranquility. Our chants vibrates against the stupa wall and resounding all over the vast garden. It was one of the best moment of tranquility during my pilgrimage.



May the Light of Dhamma shines all corners of the Universe,
May the fragrance of the Dhamma attracts all beings to the walk the Path of Dhamma.
May all beings realized the Noble Eightfold Path.

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